Planking Complete

Over the last week and a half the crew has been working long hours to finish planking the boat.  Saturday afternoon we nailed up the king plank, and the boat looks fantastic.  With the skin on the boat, we have passed a huge milestone in construction.  We only need to pack the seams with oakum before she can be flipped and finished.  In planking the boat we used all green lumber below the water line.  Typically, batteau builders have allowed their boards to dry out, and kept track of how much width the boards lose.  Boats are then built with flush seams, and ripped with a circular saw to allow for packing oakum and swell once the boat is put back in the water.  Instead of calculating the swell of the boards, we built a trough from cinder blocks and tarps, and kept all of our boards soaking.  Doing this allowed us to build the boat flush, then let the boards dry out and gap so we can pack oakum (wood fiber and grease) into the seams.  Once put back in the water the boards will swell to their original width, ensuring extremely tight seams.

Each run of planking requires several specific steps.  First, we need to figure out the width of board to use, and where to place butt joints.  Butt joints need to be alternated along each run of planking so as to avoid a hinge effect at pinch points on the boat.  Essentially, we don’t want successive runs of planking with joints on the same rib.  With the width determined, each rib must be planed to fit the board so we have a flat surface to fasten it to.  Planes must be planned and made 2 runs ahead of the last run of planking nailed up in order to have enough room to operate the planer effectively.

Andrew planes rib arms

With the planes made and boards selected, the board must be ripped on an angle so the seams will be flush from inside to outside.  The best way to determine the appropriate angle is to clamp a board into the position of the next run of planking, rest the fence of the circular saw on the run below it, and, with the blade at 90 degrees, rip the seam so the blade cuts just below the outside corner of the top board.  Once the angle was determined, we set the circular saw to the proper angle and ripped the board.  Once the board is cut we generally planed the inside edge to eliminate any error in the saw cut.

Angle cut on an planking board

With the angle cut, we then cut the butt joints.  We used three boards for each run of planking and were careful to avoid placing butt joints on the same rib.   Butt joints are cut so that the planks evenly split the width of the rib at the joint.  Once we liked the way a board fit, we clamped it into position.  Each board has a natural bow and cup.  At times it was a laborious process to force the board to go with the taper and rocker of the boat, but we developed an effective system of getting boards into place and are very pleased with the final product.

Clamping it down

With the board in position we do our standard pre-drills for our boat nails.  While one man drives the nail into position, another sits on the inside of the boat and braces the rib arm to avoid any splitting.  The first three runs of planking were made with the top 2 runs at 6” wide and the third at 10”.  By placing a 10” board on the water line we hope to avoid having a seam that sits directly on the water line.  After the first three runs, things became a bit more complicated.  As the boat is tapered, once we began working our way into the flatter sections of rib, we needed to begin tapering our boards.  Knowing that our king plank would be 9” where it met the nosecones, we decided to keep it 14” on the center rib.  We then split the difference between the remaining distance between our king plank marks and the last run of square planking three ways.  With our lines marked on each rib, we would clamp a board into position aligned with the appropriate lines, get under the boat and trace out where we needed to cut.  On each run of planking that was tapered there were 2 transitions, with the angle becoming more gradual with each successive run.

Andrew traces a tapered board

Andrew traces a tapered board

With the line drawn, we ripped the board and followed our standard angle cutting and planing procedures.  The most difficult part of cutting the tapered boards was creating a smooth transition were the angle of the prior run changed with the taper at the butt joint.  Once we were into the tapered boards, we also had to change our clamping methods.  We used ratchet straps to bring boards into position as we did not have any clamps that were long enough.

Dylan backs up a board that has been strapped into position

Once we were planked up to the king plank we took a trip to go retrieve the board from the pond it has been soaking in.  The 44′x16”x1” oak board easily weighed several hundred pounds.  After cutting it down to a more manageable 36′ (we only needed 33′), we placed it over the gap in the boat.  From underneath the boat we traced out the lines we needed to cut and flipped it over.

Andrew rips the king plank

Once the board was cut we planed the edges just enough to allow the board to be stomped into its space.  The king plank spans the entire boat, reaching into both the nosecones.

Nailing up the king plank

We believe the one piece king plank, along with our continuous cap rails, will lend significant structural stability to the boat.  Finishing planking was a huge step for the crew, and the boat looks awesome.  There is very little flat on the boat, with 2 distinct chines below the waterline.  In many ways it resembles the hull of my creek boat.  With proper weight distribution, we will be able to dig an edge of the boat into the water as we make moves.  When running rapids in a kayak, you edge into deeper water to effect a turn.  I expect to see the same principle at work as we run rapids on the New.

Planking finished up

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National Geographic Young Explorers Grant

 

Over the last few months we have been slowly gaining credibility and support with various gear sponsorships and financial contributions.  Today, we received word that we are the recipients of a generous National Geographic Young Explorers Grant.  Wesley Andrews and I began conceptualizing the idea for an extended batteau expedition about a year ago when we found out about the YEG through a workshop hosted by Nat Geo at UVA.  Slowly, the idea for the Marshall Expedition was refined and we submitted our pre-application in October of last year.  A few weeks ago we submitted the second phase of the application.  As construction draws to a close and we prepare to launch the expedition, we are extremely excited to begin our project in conjunction with National Geographic.

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Nose Cones Complete

With the nose cones built, we have completed the most difficult part of the construction process.  Planing the stem and rib so the boards sit flush, cutting the joint angles, and ripping the seams so that the joints are flush is a meticulous and difficult process.   However, with the help of several batteau veterans we have built a pair of nose cones we are confident will withstand the rigors of our journey.

Ralph Smith and William Davis came by last week and gave us an excellent start to our rear nosecone, nailing up all but the last two boards before leaving.  Over the past few days, with the help of Chip Coleman, Captain of the Rocky Creek Wildfire and home builder with The Coleman Company, and Mason Basten, we completed both nose cones.

Chip Coleman and Mason Basten check the joint on our top nose cone board

In order to nail up our nose cone boards, we first had to plane flat both the arc of our front rib and the stem.  Essentially, we cut a board that spans the space we need and leaves a few inches to spare.  By holding the board up against our rib and stem, we get an idea of the plane we need to achieve in order for the board to sit flush in both places.

Dylan planes the stem

Next, we place the board in position and draw a line following the center of our stem down our board.  We then set the circular saw to the appropriate angle and cut this board to ensure it will fit flush with its counterpart of the opposite side of the nose cone.

Andrew cuts the angle on the front of a nose cone board

With the front angle cut, we then clamp the board into position.  As the nose cone boards must be twisted to fit flush on the planed surfaces of the rib and stem, we need to cut the 90 degree edge so the seams will be flush.  With the board clamped into position, we carefully run the circular saw just below the outside corner of the top board.

Dylan rips a seam on the nose cone

The fence of the saw must be kept flush with the bottom board.  Once the planes allow the board to sit flush, the front angle is cut, and the seam is ripped, it is time to make it real.  Clamping the board into position, we do our standard pre-drills.  Our square cut 3 1/2” 10d Tremont boat nails bulge in the top third, and taper down.  A 9/64” pilot is drilled for the full length , and a 3/16″ pilot is made for the fat upper end of the nail.

Mason Basten pre-drills

We then drive the nails into position.  This process is repeated for each board on the nosecone.  Once finished, the ends of the boards are cut halfway back on the rib, in order to leave room to nail planking.  All told we are extremely pleased with the quality of our nose cones, and expect them to stand up to the the challenge of the voyage ahead.  Personally, I can’t wait to stand at the helm as we slam through the wave trains in the New River Gorge.

Andrew drives a nail

 

Chip prepares to cut the boards halfway on the rib

 

Boards cut on the finished front nose cone, Chip ready to cut the other side

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

finished front nose cone

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Exofficio and Red Ledge Sponsorship, Balcony Scouting, and New River logistics

This has been a huge week for the Marshall Expedition.  In addition to beginning construction on nose cones we have been very blessed to receive  gear sponsorship, financial support, and logistical backing.  First off we would like to extend a huge thanks to Exofficio for a generous clothing sponsorship including convertible pants, underwear, base and mid layers, and a windproof/ waterproof shell.  The crew will wear this excellent quick dry, durable gear daily.  Foul weather gear was donated by Red Ledge, a company we sought out based on crew member and commercial fisherman Kevin Ferrel’s suggestion.  In the severest of storms, our Red Ledge jackets and pants will keep us dry and happy.  Hopefully we won’t need them to often.

Both the Virginia Canals and Navigations Society and the UVA Alumni Association have come forward with generous financial support of the project.  We are proud to have these two organizations behind the Marshall Expedition.

On Tuesday of this week, Mason Basten, Kevin Ferrel and I scouted the “James River Gorge” for the best upriver lines through this arduous succession of shoals and rapids.  Balcony Falls is the biggest rapid in the gorge, generally considered class III.  Beyond balcony, there are plenty of other challenges in the gorge, but we are confident that with the appropriate rope and pulley systems and a determined crew we will successfully ascend through this magnificent section of river.

Yesterday, Ben Moore and I took a trip Fayetteville, WV to meet with Adventures on the Gorge and the National Parks Service.  Ben is an avid whitewater paddler and outdoors adventure program coordinator at VCU and has been a huge help thus far with promotions and sponsorship.  Ben works as a guide during Gauley Season for Adventures on the Gorge and set up the meeting with one of the owners, Doug Proctor.

Part of Adventures on the Gorge HQ

Doug and the other folks at Adventures on the Gorge were all very excited about the project and very open to helping with safety and logistics in the Gorge.  Many of their guides have been on the river for over twenty years and we are very excited to have their experience and knowledge on our side as we navigate the Gorge.  The New River is a National River, so we also set up a meeting with Sherri Clendenin, the program specialist at the National Park Service on The New.  Again we were met with enthusiasm and support.  We are very grateful to have the support of these two organizations as we navigate the New with its myriad challenges.

View of the Gorge from Adventures on the Gorge

The night prior to our trip, the whole region was slammed with rain, and the New was running extremely high.  Ben and I were able to scout access to the New River Dries, the section just above the Kanawah, and below the Hawks Nest Dam.  We visited Hawks Nest, a scenic overlook on the New originally named Marshall’s Point in honor of the 1812 survey.  It was extremely exciting to be in wild and wonderful West Virginia, preparing logistics for the conclusion of our epic journey.  All told, we have made a great deal of progress in the past week, and are  fired up to finish the boat and get on the water.

Tribute to the Great Chief Justice

 

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Nose Cones Get Started

 

With the cap rails nailed into place, the next step is to build the nose cones.  Nose cones are arguably both the most difficult part of a batteau to build, and the most critical to its success.  Essentially, the nose cone boards must come from the end ribs out to a point on the stem board.  On Monday morning Ralph Smith, chairman of the JRBF, Captain of the Anthony Rucker and longtime batteau builder, offered, along with William Davis of the Sedalia Endeavor to come build one if not both of our nose cones.  The crew and I jumped at the chance to learn from this veteran pair.

Work site

William and Ralph worked late into the night with remarkable speed, nearly finishing our rear nose cone.  The stem board must be planed to a point so the board has a flat surface to rest against.  At the same time the rib needs to be planed in order for the back of board to fit flush.  The nosecones are built with the top board placed on first.  With the back of the board boxed in by our cap rail, this proved to be the most difficult board to cut and match planes on rib and stem board.  Ralph and William are able to visualize the proper planes for both rib and stem with a speed and accuracy that is very impressive.

Ralph Smith and William Davis check the fit on our top nose cone board

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once the board fits the planes, it must be cut to sit flush against the cap rail and its counterpart of the other side of the nose cone.  Finding and cutting the angle at the end of the board so that both sides of the nosecone match is very difficult.  William is able to both visualize the necessary angle, and free hand cut it with a circular saw with great accuracy.

William Davis free hands the front angle on a nose cone board

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In order to have enough space to use the planer, the nose cone boards have to be worked up 2 at a time.  Working up from the bottom, planks are cut and nailed up for either side of the nose cone only after the space above it has been planed appropriately for the next set of boards.  The joint between our stem base and arm is a fairly extreme angle, and significant planing and clamping of the boards was required in order to get a tight fit on both rib base and stem.  Further, on the seems of these transition boards, the boards must be cut so the seems fit flush with one another in order for oakum (our waterproofing material) to have surface to bite in the seem.  We have a lot of work to do on the nosecones, but are off to a great start thanks to Ralph and William.

Working up the nose cone, Dylan pre drills a board

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Up River Practice

After pushing hard on construction for the last few weeks, the crew and I decided to take some much needed river time yesterday afternoon.  With Wesley Andrews in town from Richmond, and both the Schumacher boys off work we decided it would be a great time to practice some up-river poling.  Chip Coleman keeps the Rocky Creek floating year round at the mouth of Harris Creek just above the Scott’s Mill dam in Lynchburg.  Chip, along with his girlfriend Alicia DiCola, got off work in time to “supervise” our work.  Around 4 o’clock we floated a short distance down from Harris Creek to the tip of Treasure Island, and then began our ascent.

The Rocky Creek floats toward the Old 97 railroad bridge. Amherst, VA

 

We are very fortunate to have access to a floating batteau to practice our up-river work.  Our first ascending work was particularly significant given the fact that this was the first leg of Marshall’s journey in 1812, and part of the damed section we will be forced to skip.  It was a beautiful afternoon, and the crew quickly fell into a rhythm.  Chip manned the rear sweep, Alicia took pictures, and the Marshall crew poled with 2 men on each side.

Marshall Crew poling past Treasure Island

Though much of the work was done in deep water with our poles barely able to touch the bottom, we were able to make over three miles in about two hours.  Being used to moving our much larger square boat, the Debbie, I was amazed how easily the tapered Rocky Creek moved upstream.  Chip called cadences to keep all four men poling in unison, and the boat cut through the water with remarkable speed and agility.

Virginia history by the wayside

 

As we cruised along the same route Marshall followed 200 years ago, we floated past canal relics in various conditions.  The picture to the left shows a culvert of the James River and Kanawah Canal that has been ripped apart.  The stone culverts allowed small creeks to flow under the canal bed into the James.

An intact culvert in the old canal wall

Relics like this line the James River, but receive very little attention.  Dr. Bill Trout of the VCNS has spent a great deal of the past 30 years floating Virginia’s rivers and creating river atlases to serve paddlers and historians.  The atlases serve as both fantastic practical guides to running the river, and as historical maps to canal relics, batteau sluices, and wing dams.  We are excited to use our expedition as a way to highlight  both these historic treasures and Dr. Trout’s work in illuminating them.

Just a taste of what is to come

We poled steadily into the night and finished our three mile practice run upstream at the mouth of Rusens Hydroelectric dam in the dark.  It was amazing how close to the torrent of whitewater we were able to pole the boat.  These boats truly were designed to carry not only tobacco and other crops to markets in Richmond, but to then bring finished goods back up the river.  The crew and I are chomping at the bit to use our boat for its intended purpose.

fighting up to the dam in the dark

 

 

 

 

 

 

A bit wet, but invigorated

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Cap Rails Nailed Up

With the notches carefully marked and chiseled out of the cap rail, we were ready to make it real.  First, we marked a spare rib arm at 1 1/2” and checked to see that each notch was both wide enough to accept the rib arm, and deep enough to allow the rib arm to sink the full 1 1/2”.  The cap rail was then placed back on its cradle and ratcheted so the notches lined up to receive the rib arms.

Ready for the notches

Once the notches were lined up, we needed to actually bring the cap rail into position.  Forcing the 35′ piece of pine upward to accept each rib arm and accommodate our rocker proved to be a challenging task.  Not only did the board need to accommodate the bend of the taper, it must also adjust to the half inch drop in height from each rib as we moved away from the center. Each notch was cut so that the rib arm fit would be snug, and as we hammered on the cap rail, it had a tendency to jump back.

Mason Basten setting the cap rail in place with some serious clamps

Ultimately we ended up using two 4”x4” pine boards, one on top of the rib and the other underneath the cap rail.  On the side we weren’t working on, we would strap the boards in place.  We then went to the side we wished to raise and brought the cap rail into position with clamps.  We worked one rib at a time, and skip back and forth from end to end, working toward the center of the boat.  Next time I will probably work from the center out, as it was very difficult to force the pine board up to the center rib once it was nailed into the ribs on either side.

Cranking the clamps and swinging the dead blow to get the rib cap rail in position.

Overall our method of driving the cap rail up with a dead blow hammer, in conjunction with the leverage from clamping the 4”x4” pine top and bottom, proved very effective.  At times we clamped the rib arm to the outside of the cap rail in order to bring the two pieces flush.

Dylan clamps the rib arm to the cap rail.

 Once the rib arm has sunken fully into the notch, we pre-drilled two alternating holes for our boat nails.  These nails, from Tremont Nail in Massachusetts are square cut from a press that is over 100 years old.  Our first drill bit goes all the way through, with a diameter just smaller than the tip of the nail.  The next bit is just smaller than the fat upper end of the nail, and only inserted about 3/4” of an inch.  The size of the pilot holes is very important- too big and your nail is loose, too small and you risk splitting the wood.

Pre-drilling once the cap rail is in place

In the last week we have been pleasantly surprised with visits from old and new friends.  As we were getting ready to nail up a few rib arms, we were paid a visit by my good friend Jessie McDonald and his sons Ryen and Kael.

Ryen McDonald "fixin it"

Start 'em young- Kael McDonald gets the job done

We hit a few hangups along the way, but overall each rib fits very well into its notch, and the cap rail will lend tremendous structural stability to the boat.

Dylan, Kevin and Andrew glad to have the cap rail nailed up.

Check out that bow!

 

Best view on the boat

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Cap Rail Update

In order to turn the two 35′x3 1/2”x6” pine boards into cap rails that will tie our entire boat together, we needed to know exactly where each rib will sit inside the cap rail.  First, we used a bigger than average circular saw to cut a 2 3/4”x 3” section out of our board.

Andrew cuts a cap rail board

 

The 2 3/4”x3” section was cut out of the inside-bottom section of our cap rail.  The rib arms will rest against the inside of this board, and the tips will be nailed into 1 1/2” notches cut in the thick top half of the board.  All boards, particularly ones this long, have a discernible “crown” and “bow”.  The “crown” is the direction the board angles upward, and the bow is where it curves inward.  We used both of these natural features to complement the rocker (slight elevation of each end of the boat) and taper of the boat.  That is to say, the crown follows the rocker, and the bow follows the taper.  Right now the pine is so green it wobbles and bends effortlessly.  As it dries out, it will exaggerate its pre-disposed crown and bow, further reinforcing the rigidity of our boat.

Cap rail board cut

Dylan cutting the 45 on the cap rail

Once the board was cut for the rib arms, we did cosmetic cuts on 3 of the corners.  Setting our regular circular saw at a 45 degree angle, we cut 3/4” from the corners of the board.  Once the boat is flipped, we will round this edge out with a draw knife.

In order for the one piece cap rail to serve its intended purpose of maintaining the rigidity of the boat as we crest over big waves on the New, it is essential that each rib arm tip fit snugly into the cap rail.  To determine where exactly each rib would sit once the boards fit the taper, we once again took a page from Chip and the Rocky Creek’s playbook.  Using 2”x4” pine boards we built a cradle to allow the cap rails to sit against our rib arms.  Once the cap rail was resting against the rib arms, we used ratchet straps to bend the board so it was flush against the ribs.  In conversations with Chip about how to execute this step of the project, I had been nervous that we would need a great deal of force to bend the cap rail to the taper.  On the contrary, the green board took its position with remarkably little resistance.

Andrew bends the negative piece from the cap rail board

Seeing the cap rails in place was a very exciting milestone in the build.  In building this boat, we are constantly reminding ourselves that this vessel needs to be able to withstand approximately six weeks of sustained operation, through any number of stressful conditions in order to fulfill our mission.  As this piece is critical to the long term structure of our boat, seeing it in position was a real thrill.

Cap rails ratcheted to the taper

With the cap rails in position, we traced out where each rib arm will sit so we know exactly where to cut our notches.  By fitting it exactly we will ensure a tight fit on the finished product.

Cap rails snug

 

Cap rail from the outside, 3'' of the board were left at 1 1/4'' and will serve as the top plank, Isaac traces the rib arm onto the cap rail

 With the rib arms traced, it is time to chisel our 1 1/2” notches.  The past few days have been a glorious taste of spring.  With highs in the 60′s the crew has relished the opportunity to be outside working on the boat.  Yesterday we were able to fit the cap rails and notch one of them in just such weather.  Today was a different story.  The temperature plummeted overnight.  At 11 AM, the snow began falling in thick sheets.  My good friends Roger Conarroe and Cameron Archer, with whom I have shared many adventures including thru-hiking the Colorado Trail, came down to help for the day.  Through the biting cold and driving snow we were able to chisel out the notches in the second cap rail.  The radical swings in Virginia weather never cease to amaze me, and I am sure we will confront a wide range of conditions during our arduous six week journey.

Dylan chisels in beautiful 60 degree weather

 

The next day, Roger and Cameron at the same task

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One Piece Cap Rails

Last week, I took a trip down to Powhatan, VA to pick up three critical boards from the Dreaming Creek mill.  Dreaming Creek mills lumber for timber frame homes all across the country, and is the only mill I know of capable of cutting a board longer than 20′.  At Dreaming Creek I picked up both the rib materials for the new Anthony Rucker and our one piece cap rails and king plank.  The pine cap rails are the only pieces of the boat that aren’t white oak.  The cap rail, or gunwale, sits at the top of the ribs on the hull of the boat.  On the last boat, we used a cap rails from an old boat, made of white oak and fastened together with lap joints.  Though fairly strong, it proved less than ideal, particularly when we took a massive hit on Craig Creek during a flash flood last spring which resulted in a twisted cap rail and seven broken ribs.  These cap rails, just like the ones on boat 28 and the Rocky Creek are one solid piece of pine.  At 35′x6”x3 1/2” the massive boards will tie the entire boat together.  They will be recessed and notched in order for each rib to fit snugly. By using a continuous cap rail, we hope to maintain the rigidity of the boat, particularly as we crest over waves on the New River.  The one piece king plank (the board that will run down the center of the boat) is an incredible 44′x16”x1” piece of virtually flawless white oak.  This tree must have been a monster, and the oak board is incredibly heavy.  Once the boards were back in town, we dumped them into a pond so they wouldn’t have a chance to dry out and warp.  The fully saturated, green cap rail boards already have significant flex and won’t have any problem bending to the taper.

Sliding the massive boards into the pond

 

Cap rail laid on the cradle, ready for work

Driving home on route 60, with a trailer full of batteau supplies, I relished the slow transition from rolling Piedmont into the looming Appalachians.  Crossing the James at Bent Creek, I looked downstream and thought of the countless ledges and shoals that awaited at James River State park.  Bent Creek to Wingina is one of the most arduous days of the Batteau Festival.  In low water, miles of endless ledges force the navigator to spend more time in the water pushing than on the boat polling.  The whole drive, particularly contemplating the agony of getting a boat up the ledges at James River State Park, renewed my excitement for the entire project.  The crew and I can’t wait to slowly take in the Piedmont, and march steadily into Appalachia until we emerge on the other side of the mountains in the Ohio River Valley.

 

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Stem Boards In Place

Now that the ribs are in position on the jig, it is time to lay the stem boards.  These 3 1/2”x6” beams serve as the foundation for the nosecone, and come off the center line of the boat perpendicular to the ribs.  Our bow nosecone is going to be 5′ and the stern 6′.  Most modern boats, including our last one, have been built with symmetrical nosecones but Chip and the Rocky Creek followed boat 28′s example with asymmetric nosecones.  With this design, the boat will be stern heavy, raising the bow slightly out of the water.  I believe having a slight lift will be advantageous both traveling up-river, and slicing through big waves on the New.

Stem beam before any cuts

The first step was to draw the angle for the stem board joint, and do the 1/2 lap joints.  We based this angle on our rib pattern, and made it just a bit steeper.  Once that angle was cut, we did the lap joints just as we had between the rib bases and arms.  In order to maintain the 24” caprail, we cut a 44” long beam as the “stem arm.” Not all of which will be used, but it is better to have more to work with.

Lap joint

 

Checking the joint fit

The stem boards are tied into the two ribs at each end of the boat.  While most of our rib bases are 2” wide, the end ribs are 3 1/2”.  The bottom of the stem board must sit flush with the bottom of the ribs in order to plank properly, and since it is a 6” high verses our 2 1/2” rib bases, the jig and the stem had to be tapered down.

Once we had our angle determined and cut, we laid the board on top of our ribs in order to get an idea of how much material we needed to remove from both the jig and stem.  We ripped 3/4” from the “bottom” (will be the top, but the boat is still upside down) of the board where it would be resting over the cinder block pylon.  We then drew a line from that 3/4” mark out to the tip of the board, and cut a nice gentle angle.  At the back of the board, we cut exactly to the height of the rib base, 2 1/2”, and from the front of that rib angled back up to our 3/4” cut.  We then rounded out the very back edge.  All cuts were initially made with a circular saw, and edges finished with a belt sander.  The jig was cut to mirror the angle of the stem between the two ribs.

cutting the stem board anglesstem cut, ready for recess cuts

Andrew notches a rib base

Negative space marked in red on stem

The stem board arm adds 2′ of length to the boat, so the base board came 3′ out from the rib on the bow and 4′ on the stern.  While the stem is on top of the ribs we mark where we need to recess both pieces.  The objective is for the bottom of the rib, and the bottom of the stem to be flush, so we generally notch an equal amount from each board.  We carefully mark the width of the stem board on the rib, and the rib on the stem.  We then set the circular saw to the appropriate depth, and cut away the notch, making a series of very close cuts.  We then break away the remaining material, and chisel the base of the notch flat.  Each rib sits on an opposite side of the stem piece, with the stem going over the first rib and under the second.

Once the notches are cut, we carefully check the fit on all joints.  Because we are putting a full inch of rocker in between the final 2 ribs in order to achieve a more dramatic nosecone, the stem board has a tendency to twist the otherwise level rib forward.  We make careful adjustments to account for the pitch in the stem.

Dylan chisels the stem

One of the main things we are checking for when we fit the stem and ribs together, is a 90 degree angle between rib and stem.  This lets us know the stem is tracking straight out from the hull, and will ensure that the angles on our nosecone boards will be symmetrical.  Once we have each notch the way we like it, the stem arm is nailed to the stem base.

Checking the 90

We use 4 nails on either side of the joint, set far from the outside edge.  We are trying to achieve a curve much like that of our rib arm, so we will be cutting much of the outside material.   A lot of material will also be planed in order to nail up nosecone boards.  Running your planer into a boat nail is a great way to screw up your chuck.   We cut the general shape of our curve with a circular saw, then planed it once it was all nailed into place.

Andrew planes the stem board

Dylan puts the hammer down driving a rib into place on the stem

Stem nailed into place

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